Guides
How to reset a garbage disposal
A disposal that is completely dead is usually tripped rather than broken. There are three things to press or flip, in this order.

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Short answer
Press the red reset button on the underside of the disposal. If nothing happens, check the breaker at the panel and any GFCI outlet under the sink. If the motor hums rather than doing nothing at all, that is a jam rather than a trip — power off at the breaker and free the impeller plate with the hex wrench first.
In order of likelihood
Press the reset button on the underside of the unit
A small red or black button in the center of the base. Press firmly until it clicks and stays in. Then try the switch.
Check the wall switch and the outlet
Confirm the switch is the disposal's, and if the unit is plugged into a switched outlet, confirm that outlet has power using something else.
Check for a GFCI outlet and press its reset
Under-sink outlets are frequently GFCI-protected or fed from a GFCI elsewhere — often in a garage or a bathroom. Press its reset too.
Check the breaker at the panel
Look for a breaker that is not fully seated in either position. Switch it fully off, then fully on.
If it still does nothing, look for a jam
Power off at the breaker, then use the hex wrench in the bottom socket to turn the impeller plate both ways. A jam can trip the overload so fast it seems like no power at all.
Where the reset button is, and what it does
It is on the underside of the unit, in the center of the base plate, and it is usually red. It is a thermal overload switch: when the motor draws too much current for too long — a jam, or grinding a heavy load without enough water — the overload opens the circuit to protect the windings. Pressing it closes the circuit again.
That means the reset button is a symptom, not a cause. If it trips once after a bowl of potato peel, that is the protection working. If it trips weekly, something is wrong: either the load is too much for the unit, or the impeller plate is binding, or the motor is on its way out.
What to do when there is no reset button
A few units, particularly older or hardwired ones, do not have an accessible reset. In that case the overload protection may be internal and self-resetting after a cooling period — wait fifteen to twenty minutes and try again. Failing that, the protection is at the breaker, so a full off-and-on at the panel is the equivalent action.
If the unit is hardwired and dead with a healthy breaker, the next check is the wiring connection inside the base plate, which is a job to do with the circuit off and a torch — and a reasonable point to stop and call an electrician if you are not confident.
Quick picks
Tap any row to jump to the full write-up. There are no scores here because we run no test lab — how picks are chosen is published in full on our methodology page.
| # | Product | Best for | Our read | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ![]() InSinkErator Evolution Excel If it trips constantly | Large households, frequent jams | Jam-Sensor raises torque 500% instead of tripping | Check price on Amazon #ad Affiliate link · We publish no price; Amazon shows the current one |
| 2 | ![]() InSinkErator Evolution .75HP If it is time to replace it | Households of three to five | Three stages, stainless, 9-year in-home warranty | Check price on Amazon #ad Affiliate link · We publish no price; Amazon shows the current one |
If it keeps tripping
- Feed less at once, and run more cold water. Overload trips are usually load trips. Water is part of the process, not an afterthought.
- Check for something hard in the chamber. Power off at the breaker, look with a torch, and fish out anything metal or bony with pliers — never with fingers.
- Turn the impeller plate by hand with the wrench. If it feels tight or gritty rather than free, something is binding.
- Consider that the unit may be undersized. A 1/2 HP single-stage disposal in a five-person household will trip, and that is a specification problem rather than a fault — see horsepower guide.
When it is genuinely dead
If the reset holds, the breaker is on, the outlet has power, the impeller turns freely by hand and the unit still does nothing at all, the motor or the internal switch has failed. Disposals are not economically repairable at that point — there is no rebuildable component a household can access — so replacement is the answer.
The good news is that a like-for-like swap is often quick, particularly within the same brand where the sink flange and mounting assembly can be reused. See how to replace a garbage disposal.

Photograph shows the product category, not this specific unit. We do not republish manufacturer product photography.
1. If it trips constantly
InSinkErator Evolution Excel
InSinkErator · Best for large households, frequent jams
The full-horsepower option, and the only one here with a published jam-breaking mechanism: the Jam-Sensor circuit raises motor torque by 500% to clear a stall instead of tripping the reset. If you have a large household and a history of resetting a disposal weekly, this is what that problem costs to solve.
Published specifications
- Motor
- 1.0 HP, single phase, 120 V, 60 Hz, 1725 rpm source
- Grind stages
- Three-stage MultiGrind, against one on a standard disposal source
- Jam handling
- Jam-Sensor circuit increases motor torque 500% to break jams source
- Sound
- SoundSeal, plus the Quiet Collar sound-reducing baffle source
- Overall height
- 13" source
- Weight
- 23.0 lb shipping weight source
- Warranty
- 7-year parts and in-home service source
What works
- Jam-Sensor is the one published feature that addresses the most common disposal complaint
- The Quiet Collar baffle is included rather than sold separately, and the baffle is most of the perceived noise fix
- 1 HP with three stages handles the fibrous waste that stalls half-horsepower units
- InSinkErator publishes a full spec sheet including amperage and RPM
What does not
- 13 inches tall and 23 lb — the largest unit here, and the most likely to foul a shallow cabinet or a P-trap
- Seven-year warranty is shorter than the 3/4 HP Evolution's nine
- 1 HP does not make it a bone grinder; the failure point just moves
Skip it if
Skip it if your cabinet is shallow or your trap arm sits high — measure the 13-inch height before buying horsepower you cannot fit.
#ad Affiliate link · We publish no price; Amazon shows the current one
Raw specifications: InSinkErator’s own page for the InSinkErator Evolution Excel.

Photograph shows the product category, not this specific unit. We do not republish manufacturer product photography.
2. If it is time to replace it
InSinkErator Evolution .75HP
InSinkErator · Best for households of three to five
The disposal we would fit in most houses. Three-quarters of a horsepower with three-stage grinding and stainless grind components is the point on the range where fibrous waste stops being a gamble, and SoundSeal makes it noticeably quieter than a Badger. The nine-year in-home warranty is the longest of any InSinkErator continuous-feed unit we checked.
Published specifications
- Motor
- 3/4 HP Dura-Drive induction source
- Grind stages
- Three-stage MultiGrind source
- Grind components
- Stainless steel source
- Overall height
- 12.25" source
- Sound
- SoundSeal — quieter than a standard disposal source
- Septic
- Safe for properly maintained septic tanks source
- Warranty
- 9-year We Come to You limited service warranty source
What works
- Three grind stages and stainless components — the two specs that decide whether fibrous scraps jam
- Only three-quarters of an inch taller than a Badger 5, so it fits most cabinets that took one
- Nine-year in-home warranty, which is a real statement about expected service life
- EZ Connect cord and hardwire adapter in the box, so it suits either wiring situation
What does not
- InSinkErator publishes no decibel figure, and neither do we — SoundSeal is a comparison, not a measurement
- 3/4 HP still stalls on bones and fruit pits; no domestic disposal is a bone grinder
- Chamber capacity is not published for this model
Skip it if
Skip it if you are one or two people who scrape plates and little else — you would be paying for capability you will not use.
#ad Affiliate link · We publish no price; Amazon shows the current one
Raw specifications: InSinkErator’s own page for the InSinkErator Evolution .75HP.
What to take away
- Silent means tripped or no power; humming means jammed. They are different problems.
- Reset button, then switch and outlet, then GFCI, then breaker — in that order.
- No reset button usually means an internal self-resetting overload: wait twenty minutes, then use the breaker.
- Weekly tripping is a load or a binding problem, not something to keep resetting.
How we sourced this page
Every figure on this page came from one of the following. Where a manufacturer or an independent lab does not publish a number, we say so rather than estimate it.
Common questions
- Can you reset your garbage disposal?
- Yes — there is a thermal overload reset button on the underside of almost every unit, usually red and in the center of the base. Press it firmly until it clicks and stays in, then try the switch again. It resets the overload protection that shut the motor down.
- How do I reset a garbage disposal with no button?
- Some units have an internal self-resetting overload: wait fifteen to twenty minutes for it to cool and try again. Otherwise the protection is at the breaker, so switch the circuit fully off and fully on at the panel. If it is hardwired and still dead with a healthy breaker, the connection inside the base plate is the next check — with the circuit off.
- Why does my garbage disposal keep tripping the reset?
- Usually the load: too much at once, or not enough cold water running. Otherwise something is binding the impeller plate, or the unit is undersized for the household. Turn the plate by hand with the hex wrench to check it moves freely; if it is tight or gritty, something is in there.
- How to reset a garbage disposal that won't turn on at all?
- In order: press the reset button on the underside, confirm the wall switch and outlet have power, press the reset on any GFCI outlet in the circuit, then cycle the breaker at the panel. If it is silent rather than humming, one of those four is almost always the answer.
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